Are you looking for a place that has not yet entered the radar of mass tourism, but that offers untouched nature and deep history? Then it’s time to get acquainted with Leuse. Just two kilometers from the city of Përmet, on the slopes of Mount Dhëmbel, lies a small village with a big heart. Filled with stones, memories and greenery, Leusa is one of those places that is felt more than seen and for this reason must be carefully discovered, like a secret inherited from generation to generation.
A journey through history
The name “Leusa” comes from the Greek word Eleusa, which means “Merciful” one of the epithets of the Holy Virgin. In fact, this place carries a sense of peace that is difficult to find elsewhere. It is first mentioned in Ottoman documents from 1431, as a stopping point on the road leading to Ioannina. In the following centuries, Leusa became a refuge for the Aromanian community (Farsharot Vlachs), who brought with them their language, customs and crafts. World War II hit the village hard and during the communist period, the old inhabitants moved away, leaving behind stones, memories and a sense of silence that today makes the place even more special.
St. Mary’s Church – a treasure of stone and spirit
In the heart of the village, between three streams that descend from Mount Dhembel, stands silently the Church of St. Mary, one of the rarest monuments of Orthodox worship in Albania. Built in the 18th century on the ruins of a 6th century temple, this church has survived time with rare dignity. Its carved stone facade and two-story narthex are more reminiscent of a monastery than a village church. Inside, the mural frescoes of 1812 and the skillfully carved wooden iconostasis of 1817 make this place not only a place of pilgrimage, but also a living art gallery. In front of the entrance, tombstones from the 18th–19th centuries speak quietly of past lives and gracefully preserve the memory of generations.
Traditions that survive with pride
Leusa is one of those villages where traditions are not just memories, but part of everyday life. The inhabitants have diligently preserved the stone and copper crafts, which were once the only way to survive in the absence of arable land. Today, visitors can still see hearths that produce fruit brandy, heirloom jams with a homemade flavor, and rare jams like the one with mushrooms or nuts. Pomegranates, cherries, and plums grow in the courtyards of traditional houses, while inns offer meat, cheese, and vegetables preserved by the family themselves. Hospitality is part of the culture, and in Leusa, visitors never leave without a smile and a glass of brandy in hand. For more on the cuisine of the area, see also The best restaurants in Permet.
The holiday that unites everyone – August 15
Every year, on August 15, Leusa breathes differently. It is the Day of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary, the village’s biggest holiday, where time seems to stop to make way for joy, prayer and reunion. Scattered throughout Albania or abroad, the original inhabitants return to their grandparents’ homes to participate in the liturgy held in the magnificent village church. The night before the holiday is filled with sacred silence and candlelight, while the morning follows with mass and community greetings. At noon, the atmosphere explodes with folkloric sounds, traditional songs and dances that last until late at night. This day is not just a religious celebration, it is a reminder that Leusa still lives in the hearts of the people who keep it alive every summer.
The surrounding nature – greenery and tranquility at every step
Leusa is not just an ancient village with stones and memories but also a natural oasis in the heart of the southern highlands. Located on the western slopes of Mount Dhëmbel, with an altitude of about 411 meters above sea level, the village is surrounded by forests of oaks, pines and vegetation typical of the hilly-mountainous climate. The Leusa stream, which originates in the mountains and flows into the Vjosa River, creates a quiet sound that follows the visitor throughout the entire walk through the cobblestone streets. In every corner of the village, the aroma of greenery and the freshness of untouched nature can be felt. This makes Leusa ideal for anyone looking for a quiet escape away from the noise of the city, whether for a picnic among the trees, a wonderful photo, or a walk that fills you with fresh air.
Active exploration of trails, peaks and experiences
For those who are not satisfied with a static visit, Leusa offers a network of trails that lead to adventure. One of the most popular is the Leusa–Dhembel–Lipe trail, which climbs from the village through slopes covered with meadows and dense forests, towards the Dhembel mountain pass. The road is steep, but the panorama that reveals the entire Vjosa valley below is the most beautiful price for every step. The hike takes several hours and is recommended for those with little experience in mountainous terrain.
In addition to this itinerary, nearby are the Hotova Fir National Park (25 km away), the thermal waters of Benja, and the Langarica canyon, all within an hour’s drive of Leusë, making the village a perfect base for exploration.
Leusa today – small in population, big in value
Although today only about 100 inhabitants live in Leusë, most of them elderly, the village retains a strong and inalienable identity. There are no new modern buildings to spoil the view, the stone alleys, traditional houses and authentic architecture are like an open-air museum that is still alive. Precisely because the road to the village remained unpaved for a long time, Leusë was not cut off by the waves of “rapid modernization” that have changed the face of many other villages. Today, this “delay” has turned into a blessing: Leuse is a window into the past, a natural connection to the Zagoria region and a strategic point for mountain tourism. Here, time moves more slowly and perhaps precisely because of this, everything feels more real.
How to visit Leusa – practical tips
If you are planning a visit to Leusa, here’s what you need to know:
- Ideal time to visit: Spring and summer are the best seasons. For a special experience, plan your visit for August 15, during the village festival.
- How to get there: Leusë is located just 2 km from the centre of Përmet. You can reach it by private car or taxi. The road is rural and partly unpaved, but passable with care.
- By bus: If you are travelling by bus to Përmet, ask at the town station for information on the best ways to get to Leuse (usually via taxi or a short walk).
- Where to stay: Përmet offers good quality hotels and guesthouses. Recently, traditional guesthouses have opened in Leusë itself, an excellent choice for an authentic and peaceful stay.
- Where to eat: In Permet you can find the best cuisine of southern Albania (see: the best restaurants in Permet). In Leuse you can enjoy fresh cheese, oven-baked meat and homemade glikò.
An invitation to go back in time
At a time when mass tourism is slowly erasing the feeling of “discovery”, Leuse remains like an unwritten page in the book of Albania. Where the streets are still paved with stones, where silence speaks louder than words and where hospitality is not a service, but a way of life. If you are looking for a place that is not easily forgotten, Leusë is one of those that you must see for yourself.
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