Have you ever heard of a town with more lakes than streets, where nature and history intertwine in a truly magical way? Welcome to Belsh, one of Albania’s best-kept secrets! Located in the very heart of the country, on the lush plateau of Dumre, this small town surrounded by 84 karst lakes offers everything a traveler could dream of: tranquility, fairytale landscapes, deep historical roots, and warm Albanian hospitality.
This guide is for those seeking more than an ordinary weekend getaway—it’s for travelers who want to experience authentic Albania, far from noise and mass tourism. Belsh is not just a beautiful stop; it’s an experience that stays with you.
From the Illyrians to Sami Frashëri – Belsh’s historical journey
Belsh is not only beautiful—it is ancient, important, and rich in history. Look just beyond the lakes and you’ll discover the ruins of an ancient Illyrian settlement in Gradishte, only a few kilometers away. This Bronze Age site became an urban center of the Parthini tribe around the 4th century BC and is often referred to as the “Acropolis of Dumre” due to its strategic position overlooking the plain.
A fascinating detail? It is believed that along these shores once stood a sanctuary dedicated to the goddess Aphrodite, where worshippers offered terracotta vessels into the water. Even today, divers occasionally find fragments of these ancient artifacts at the bottom of Lake Seferan.
But Belsh’s story does not end in antiquity. In the 19th century, Sami Frasheri, one of Albania’s greatest Renaissance thinkers, proposed that the future capital of Albania be built in Belsh, due to its central location and healthy climate. He famously called it “the navel of Albania”—a phrase that still lives on in the hearts of locals.
84 lakes like pearls – The karst magic that makes Belsh unique
Belsh is unlike any other town. Proudly known as the “city of 84 lakes”, it is a natural wonder found nowhere else in Albania—and rarely anywhere in the Mediterranean. This network of small and large lakes scattered across the karst plateau of Dumre creates a breathtaking landscape. The lakes resemble mirrors scattered across rolling hills, especially magical in the early morning when mist rises gently above the water and white water lilies float peacefully.
The most famous is Lake Belsh, located right by the town center—a peaceful oasis with a modern promenade, lakeside cafés, and views that invite you to slow down and breathe. Lake Seferan, the largest in the area, lies just 3 km away and offers sculptures, water activities, and unforgettable scenery. For those seeking something deeper and wilder, there is Lake Merhoja, a striking blue gem reaching depths of up to 61 meters.
Each lake has its own character, history, and often its own legend. One of the most beloved? The legend of Lake Belsh, which tells of a once-dry field where a wedding forgot to turn off the water taps—flooding everything and forming the lake we see today. Magic or reality? One thing is certain: the lakes of Belsh will leave you in awe.
📸 Aphrodite in Seferan – A living symbol of heritage
On the western shore of Lake Seferan, visitors can admire one of Belsh’s most meaningful landmarks: a modern statue of the goddess Aphrodite, created by a local artist and placed where her ancient sanctuary is believed to have once stood. Elegantly gazing over the water, this sculpture symbolizes the deep connection between Illyrian mythology and Belsh’s modern tourist identity. Frequently photographed, it has become one of the town’s most iconic images—a perfect spot to pause, reflect, and capture beauty and history in a single frame.
From village to promenade – The transformation of Belsh
Not long ago, Belsh was a quiet small town with a simple center and improvised structures near the lake. But after 2016, everything changed. Thanks to an ambitious Urban Renaissance project, the town was transformed with a modern pedestrian promenade, decorative lighting, bike lanes, relaxation areas, and stunning lake views.
Today, Belsh’s town center is its beating heart—a place where families, tourists, and young people gather for evening walks. Lakeside cafés offer not only refreshment but an atmosphere reminiscent of Southern European resorts. A fountain inspired by the “lake nymph”, busts of Sami Frasheri and Skanderbeg, and lush greenery make Belsh a town that invites you to stay longer.
This transformation is not merely aesthetic—it has revitalized social and tourist life. On weekends, the town buzzes with visitors, and locals proudly say: “Belsh has changed 100 percent.”
Dances, Iso and Nymphs – Culture that animates the lakes
In Belsh, nature is not the only thing that captivates—it’s also a culture that lives on with passion. The region boasts a rich folkloric heritage, where iso-polyphonic songs, traditional dances, and folk costumes have been passed down through generations. Dumre alone is said to have over 23 traditional dances, and Belsh’s folklore ensemble has represented Albania internationally, winning awards.
Traditional costumes are another source of pride. Families such as the Hysaj family still weave costumes on traditional looms, preserving ancient techniques and unique local patterns. These garments are not merely festive clothing—they are symbols of identity, often treasured and inherited within families.
Festivals? Plenty! Alongside Summer Day (March 14), Belsh hosts the “Lakes of Dumre” festival every September, bringing together artists from across Albania for music, dance, food fairs, and handicrafts. A newer but much-loved event is “The Lake Nymph”—a lively lakeside celebration with symbolic competitions, music, and activities for visitors.
This living cultural heritage gives Belsh a distinct soul, where every lakeside walk may be accompanied by folkloric sounds and sincere smiles from locals.
Belsh and tradition at the table
If nature delights your eyes, Belsh’s cuisine delights your soul—and your appetite. This small town is an oasis of traditional Albanian flavors, where every meal is a journey into local culinary roots. Visitors from Tirana, Elbasan, or Durrës often come not only for the lakes, but for a carp casserole with vegetables, lamb cooked under a saç, or a warm hasude dessert with sugar.
Lakeside restaurant menus feature specialties such as fresh local fish (carp, trout, bleak), pies with nettles or pumpkin, and lesser-known but authentic dishes like “kalastrena” (a meat-based pastry dish) and “ajkuna”, a traditional leek stew. These are flavors rarely found in Tirana’s modern restaurants—homemade tastes prepared with care and tradition.
No story of Belsh would be complete without mentioning Dumre’s olive oil, a high-quality product made from olives grown on surrounding hills. Adding to this, one of the most intriguing recent developments is Belsh saffron—a rare and valuable crop now cultivated successfully and emerging as an export brand: “Zafferano di Dumre.”
In Belsh, hospitality is as strong as the flavors. Every table opened to visitors feels like home—and that may be the most special recipe this town offers.
From tobacco to saffron – Building a new economy in Belsh
Belsh’s economy has always been deeply connected to the land. With a predominantly rural territory and favorable climate, the area was for decades known for producing high-quality tobacco—so much so that “Dumre tobacco” was once famous throughout Albania. Even today, despite market challenges and limited subsidies, some farmers continue to cultivate it with passion.
But Belsh is not stuck in the past. In recent years, supported by development projects and organizations such as GIZ and LevizAlbania, the region has embraced agricultural diversification, introducing products like premium olive oil, grapes, and—most notably—saffron. In the village of Dëshiran, one family began cultivating this high-value crop, and today “Zafferano di Dumre” stands as one of Albania’s best examples of innovative agribusiness.
Alongside tourism growth, agrotourism is gaining momentum. Farms offering experiences such as olive harvesting, traditional cooking, or stays in authentic guesthouses are becoming a new development model for the region. This approach preserves local traditions, creates jobs, boosts family incomes, and offers visitors a truly immersive experience.
Belsh is proving that a small municipality with a strong identity can become a laboratory for sustainable rural development—where economy and culture do not compete, but collaborate.
Walking, cycling, and boating – Belsh for the adventurous and the peaceful
Belsh offers not only beauty to admire, but also plenty to do. For outdoor enthusiasts, this town invites you to move, explore, and experience. The promenade along Lake Belsh is perfect for leisurely walks, while the lakeside road features bike lanes for scenic cycling under the shade of trees.
For more adventurous visitors, lakes such as Seferan offer opportunities for boating or relaxing afternoons in nature. Surrounding the lakes are hiking trails suitable for all ages, leading to panoramic hills or picturesque picnic spots.
The surrounding areas, with oak forests, cultivated fields, and peaceful shores, are ideal for nature photography, birdwatching (even the Dalmatian pelican makes occasional visits!), or simply disconnecting from routine.
Belsh is shaping active tourism as a key part of its identity—a place where you can enjoy nature’s calm while also feeling the thrill of movement. Ideal for couples, families, or groups seeking a different and vibrant Albania.
Belsh awaits you – Share this hidden gem!
At a time when many seek the most famous and crowded destinations, Belsh offers a peaceful, beautiful, and authentic alternative. It’s a place where nature speaks, history inspires, and people welcome you with open hearts. From lakeside walks to traditional flavors and timeless legends, Belsh is more than a town—it’s a complete experience for the senses and the soul.
If this virtual journey has sparked even a bit of inspiration, share this article with your friends. It might be the push someone needs to pack their bags for the next weekend—or perhaps even you… 🌿
Belsh awaits you. Don’t keep it a secret—share it with others!
